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LUNCH REVIEW

All soup, all the time

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"But sir, it's supposed to be cold."

I always thought cold soup jokes were funny, at least when I was 8 years old and would see them on some cheesy TV variety show.

In my limited world view, I agreed that the idea of cold soup was funny, even a little snobby.

But I am now a cold soup convert thanks to Kamasouptra, a recent addition to the Public Market House in Monument Square. The place specializes in soup, and because warm weather is here, they're now specializing in cold soup.

On the day I went, they had gazpacho and chilled fiddlehead with rhubarb (each $4.50 for a 12-ounce serving) and creamy asparagus for $5.50.

I bought both the gazpacho and the creamy asparagus. I figured, hey, they're cold, so I can put one in the refrigerator and have lunch for another day.

The other thing I quickly realized I liked about cold soup is that it's fast. I ordered, they ladled it into a cup, they rang me up, and I was off.

Then, when I tasted the soups, I was pleasantly surprised at how rich in flavor cold soup can be.

The gazpacho was made with tomatillos, cucumber, various peppers, olive oil, cilantro and red wine vinegar. The combination was great. Even though it was smooth, it was filling. All the soups come with a pretty good-sized crusty roll, which was fluffy and fresh.

The next day, I had the creamy asparagus made with leeks and roasted garlic. I don't usually like creamed anything soups, but this one was great and, again, filling.

The soup menu changes daily, and you can find it on the place's website, www.kamasouptra.com.

Some of the other soups I've seen offered there include potato-fennel, maple-spiced sweet potato, Scotch broth and sweet potato and shrimp chowder. Many of the soups are vegetarian, vegan and/or gluten-free.

For dessert, they sell cupcakes from Tulips Cupcakery for $2. I had a lemon blueberry, which was amazing. It had candied lemon pieces inside, icing shaped like flower pedals and a blueberry on top. Wow.

On the weekends, Kamasouptra does brunch, offering breakfast scrambles inside bread bowls and various kinds of eggs Benedict inside bread bowls ranging from $4.50 to $5.50.

The place is located on the second floor of the Public Market House, so there is plenty of seating in an area of couches and tables shared with other eateries. Plus, it's right on Monument Square, so you can take your cold soup outside and find a nice warm bench.

The Features staff of The Portland Press Herald/Maine Sunday Telegram anonymously samples meals for about $7.

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Kamasouptra

Public Market House (second floor), 28 Monument Square Portland
www.kamasouptra.com

HOURS: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday

CHEAPEST GRUB: Twelve-ounce soup, different flavors every day, $4.50

WAIT: A minute or two

PARKING: On street

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