Choice choices make Shima a diner's destination

David Shima worked at Fuji, around the corner from his new restaurant Shima, for six years before embarking on his own business with partner Atchan (Atsushi) Tamaki, owner of ISF Trading, a sea urchin supplier on Hobson's Wharf.

For the past three months, Shima has been behind the sushi bar in his attractive space on Fore Street, where right now fresh sea urchins are displayed ready to order.

But Shima's menu focuses on variety. Born in Hawaii, raised in London and Tokyo, and boasting a Parisian culinary education and work in a Tokyo hotel, chef Shima is a peacemaker of international cuisine.

You can hear the sushi lover outside the door, saying to a friend with no interest in raw seafood, why not eat here? "What about roast chicken? Moules marinieres? Duck confit? Or Hawaiian barbecue short rib?" They are all on the menu.

From a list of sake, Ozeki ($8 for a porcelain carafe) is served warm. A modest selection of wine and beer and a full range of cocktails are also available.

Shima cracks open the spiny round eggs of urchin shells, scoops out the uni (creamy orange lobes), rinses them off and places them in a clean shell on a bed of strands of crunchy daikon, an East Asian radish. Three sea urchins are emptied to provide the servings on a rectangular plate that features two shells ($6).

Tightly packed pickled ginger lies inside a roll wrapped in cucumber. The sliced sections make a heck of a mouthful in one bite, and might be better pulled apart.

A special of fried alligator ($8) tastes of spicy sweet barbecue sauce. The small pieces of alligator meat in a crisp, thin, fried coating were chewy and meaty, but their flavor was hard to discern under the pungent sauce and slices of hot pepper.

Two omakase ($42 for a five-course, $55 for a seven-course version of the chef's-choice menu) were as different as they could be, starting off with one of the heavy white china plates of fresh sashimi blue fin and yellow fin tuna.

In a shallow bowl, seared swordfish introduced a roasted flavor on top of finely chopped cilantro, garlic, jalapenos and lemon juice – the same fresh and vibrant mixture had turned Maine shrimp into ceviche, which were served in small bowls when we were seated.

Crabmeat mac and cheese with uni and truffle oil comes with a Cognac-pickled black truffle. According to our excellent server, the dish was created when she brought children to the restaurant for a birthday lunch.

Luckily for us, this buttery version with good sharp cheese is perfectly made, and if the kids gobbled down the additions of uni and crabmeat without a qualm, as the server said, the adults can enjoy knowing what's inside.

Scallop sashimi with truffle oil over sticks of crisp cucumber achieved a moment of splendor with the crunch of sea salt, intensity of lemon, and the creamy, voluptuous texture of scallop under a tiny mobcap of herbs and parsley.

Slices of flank steak on a skewer had a sweet and hot rub on their roasted exterior. Seared gulf shrimp, slightly crisped and still tender, leaned against a heap of crabmeat mixed with yuzu (a Japanese citrus), white miso and sweet rice wine on a slice of pineapple. The savory shrimp, sweet crabmeat and sugary pineapple held harmonious, wonderful flavors.

Maki (rolls) now come in a huge variety. However, one made with a soybean wrap or crepe, sticky rice and a center of chopped barbecued short rib jazzed by jalapeno oil, is original to Shima and eloquent with flavor.

Less strange and less tasty was a rare scallop wrapped in seared, meaty bacon and topped with maple glaze.

In two square shallow dishes, two simple rolls ended the series of courses. One was made with rich salmon, which was slightly seared and dressed with shiso (a leafy green herb) and olive oil, and topped with salmon roe.

The other was made with yellow fin tuna with tobiko (flying fish roe). Both were draped over sticky rice wrapping buttery avocado. Microgreens or tiny herbs and shaved scallion added another dimension, and although simple, these two rolls were exceptionally delicious.

Interrupting the Asian flavors was a perfectly cooked thick slice of swordfish ($15) over sauted spinach and a chunky sauce of tomatoes. The switch from the delicate maki was startling, but this plate of cooked fish also fed us well.

Sauteed frog legs with garlic butter ($8), a special appetizer, might work with cod tempura with pineapple curry – or Alaskan King crab with yuzu butter ($24) from the regular menu.

In another mood, you could just stick to the baby back ribs ($14 for a half rack, $28 for a full rack) with Hawaiian barbecue sauce and go home happy.

The pleasure of Shima's bowls of creamy, light house ginger ice cream seem to transcend cuisines. Lay down your spoon for a moment, and you will find it back in your hand a second later.

N.L. English is a Portland freelance writer and the author of "Chow Maine: The Best Restaurants, Cafes, Lobster Shacks and Markets on the Coast." Visit English's Web site, www.chowmaineguide.com.

Shima